Antique Late Victorian/Edwardian Bohemian Garnet Necklace

Bohemian garnets were popular throughout the entirety of the 19th century, and well into the 20th, but changes in fashion, gem cutting techniques, and jewelry manufacturing technology make it possible to date pieces fairly accurately. While early to mid Victorian Bohemian garnet jewelry was made of many small, clustered rose cut stones (and larger cabochons) in closed-back settings, the end of the 19th century saw advances in stone cutting technology that led to a preference for bigger rose cut stones, with larger facets, usually in open-back settings. This change in gem cutting techniques coincided with, and was partially responsible for, the garland style jewelry that became popular during the Belle Epoque period, from 1871-1914. This simple but elegant necklace is an excellent example of these changes- larger rose cuts in round, oval, and pear shapes feature a multitude of crisp, sparkling facets that allow the stones to glimmer without the need for foil backs and polished, closed settings, while showing off a beautiful range of reds. These stones are interspersed with smaller rose cut garnets in the "old" style, pointed rose cuts with closed backs, giving them a deeper cherry glow. The style of the necklace itself is transitional, bridging the gap between the heavier cluster-and-drop styles of mid-19th century Bohemian garnet necklaces, and the lacy, dainty styles of the Edwardian era, which would make very effective use of negative space to create an airy effect. It also has a hint of the Georgian revival style that would become so popular at the turn of the 20th century. Based on the combination of cuts, the style of the necklace, and the fact that the settings and links are handmade and not machined, I believe this necklace dates to between the late 1800s and the very early 1900s, likely 1890-1910.

This necklace is in excellent condition, with all stones intact, and a secure box clasp. It is made of gilt tombac (a copper-rich brass alloy that was often used for Bohemian garnet jewelry), with wear to the gilding appropriate for its age. The necklace measures 16", with the center drop adding another 0.75" of length.